RINCÓN DE AGUJAS Y LANAS: como hacer cubrepañales de lana

ES muy facil de hacer y hay monton de ideas para decorar cubrepañales(esta en inlish)
T H E C U R L Y P U R L Y
S O A K E R P A T T E R N
by Marnie Ann Joyce
A N O T E A B O U T T H E P A T T E R N :
There are some informational bits here at the top before
you get to casting on. Please read them. I can't tell you
how many people send me funky photos saying it doesn't
work for them when they simply missed some important
info here at the start.
I had testers. I wrote this all out for them. I amended it
and corrected it and tested it again. Please, just read it
and humor me.
G A U G E & S I Z I N G
This pattern is based on 4.5-5 stitches/inch and 7
rows/inch.
The important thing to keep in mind when choosing a yarn
is its elasticity. This pattern is based on ribbing, and wool
will always stretch over time. Some yarns lose their shape
faster than others, and it is best to avoid these yarns for
the waistband. I suggest you stay away from any 100%
Merino yarn. Yarns with mohair content are also to be
avoided. If you must use such yarns I suggest threading a
bit of elastic through the ribbing inside the soaker to help
the waitband hold its shape.
This soaker pattern has a lot of stretch and is designed to
fit snugly, keeping it nice and trim under clothing. When
you choose your size, you want your child to fit in the
middle to end of the size range.
This pattern is written for 5 sizes. You may create your
own sizing depending on the gauge. Keep in mind to cast
on in multiples of 8.
NB (approximately 12"-16" hip and 14" rise)
SM (approximately 14"-18" hip and 16" rise)
MED (approximately 16"-22" hip and 18" rise)
LG (approximately 17"-24" hip and 20" rise)
XL (approximately 19"-25" hip and 22" rise).
A N O T E A B O U T S H O R T R O W S :
I like to incorporate some short rows into the pleated
section of this soaker pattern. Placing them in only the
upper part of the soaker keeps the body trim while adding
a bit of room. You may use any method for short rows:
wrapping, unwrapping, yarnovers, etc. This pattern will not
teach you how to create them. If you like, you can simply
skip them. the soaker will be a bit more snug. If you think
you might need extra height, you can simply add to the
rise. I like no-short row, high-rise soakers under pants,
because the soaker waistband comes up over the pants
waistband, and that keeps it from shifting around during
playtime.
I will note the points at which I suggest adding short rows,
but you can add them where ever you choose.
A N O T E A B O U T C A S T O N & S T I T C H E S
U S E D :
You can use any cast on you like, as long as it's a nice,
stretchy one.
Stitches used in this pattern are all common, and videos
for each stitch (in both the English and Continental style of
knitting) can be found at http://www.knittinghelp.com . If
you don't know something, look it up before deciding to
simply substitute another technique. It's worth it.
Knit (K)
Purl (P)
Knit two stitches together (K2tog)
Slip, Slip, Purl (SSP)
Kitchener graft
Repeat sections are delimited with asterisks. When you are
asked to "repeat" you are to repeat the section between
asterisks.
So "k5 *p1 k7* repeat" means "knit 5 stitches, then purl
1 stitch, knit 7 stitches, repeating the p1k7 section ONLY."
T H E P A T T E R N
CO 64 [72,80,88,96] stitches on needles 4 sizes smaller
than you would use to make gauge.
join and mark start of round.
Your start of round marker will be your center back. place
hip markers as follows: (NOTE: continue knitting in k1p1
rib regardless of the placement of the markers.)
NB - k1p1 for 17 stitches, place marker. continue in
pattern for 31 stitches, place marker, continue in pattern
for 16 stitches to arrive at center back marker.
SM - k1p1 for 19 stitches, place marker. continue in
pattern for 35 stitches, place marker, continue in pattern
for 18 stitches to arrive at center back marker.
MED - k1p1 for 21 stitches, place marker. continue in
pattern for 39 stitches, place marker, continue in pattern
for 20 stitches to arrive at center back marker.
LG - k1p1 for 23 stitches, place marker. continue in pattern
for 43 stitches, place marker, continue in pattern for 22
stitches to arrive at center back marker.
XL - k1p1 for 25 stitches, place marker. continue in pattern
for 47 stitches, place marker, continue in pattern for 24
stitches to arrive at center back marker.
You can now remove the center back marker, leaving only
the two hip markers. A simple glance towards your cast on
tail will remind you where your start of round is.
Remember that this tail is in the center of the back of the
soaker.
continue to k1p1 around for 14 rows (~2 inches) ignoring
all markers.
If you want to switch color, do it here.
If you want to add short rows, add the first one here, after
changing color, before changing needle size. Make a single
short row from hip marker, back to hip marker and back
again.
Switch needle sizes to 2 sizes below those needed to
obtain gauge.
*k3 p1 k1 p1 k1 p1* for 7 rows (~1 inch).
If you are adding short rows, add the second one here.
Make a single short row from hip marker, back to hip
marker and back again.
k5 *p1 k7* repeat until 3 stitches remain before center
marker. p1 k2.
Repeat around for 7 rows (~1 inch).
If you are adding short rows, add the third one here. Make
a single short row from hip marker, back to hip marker and
back again.
Change to needles used to obtain gauge. Continue knitting
in the round until entire soaker measures 5" [5.5", 6",
6.5", 6.5"] from CO edge. (If using short rows, make sure
these measurements are made in the FRONT of the soaker,
not the rear - the side with the short rows).
Knit from start of round to first marker (right hip). BO 5
stitches. Knit to 5 stitches before hip marker (left hip), BO
5 stitches.
Knit across, k2tog last 2 stitches. Turn and purl (or knit
backwards) until 2 stitches remain. SSP remaining 2
stitches. Repeat these two rows until 18 [18, 20, 20, 20]
stitches remain (4.25-4.5 inches). Leave stitches live on
needle, snip the yarn, and return to stitches between the
BO sections (front of soaker).
join new yarn and knit across until 2 stitches remain.
k2tog. turn work and purl (or knit backwards) to final two
stitches, SSP until 18 [18, 20, 20, 20] stitches remain.
Measure leg opening, and continue in stockinette without
decreasing until leg opening measures 9 [10, 11, 12, 13]
inches.
Graft seam.
pick up stitches around leg opening for cuffs. I prefer a 1
inch 1x1 ribbed cuff using smaller needles (for example the
same needles i used for the 1x1 section of the waistband)
for an ultra-trim and secure fit, but a rolled cuff works as
well. Really, you can do whatever you like for the cuffs.
Block your soaker and have a fashion show.
G E T I N T O U C H
You can send me photos of your finished work. I'd love to
see it. I would say that I'd like to put a gallery of your
work on my site, but I've said that before, and... well we
all know where paving a road with good intentions gets
you. So let's just say send me your photos and we'll see
what happens.
marnie@curlypurly.com
http://curlypurly.com
T E R M S & C O N D I T I O N S
This pattern is being provided to for your personal use. The conditions are
simple.
If you make any modifications to this pattern (or have any suggestions),
please submit those changes to me and I will make them available to
everyone here as an option or enhancement to the pattern.
If you prefer to keep your modifications to this pattern private or if you
would like to sell items made using this pattern for profit or you will need to
license the pattern. Please contact me for licensing information including
information regarding special licenses for charity donations.
W H A T A B O U T T H E C H O C O L A T E ?
Yes, it's true that I used to suggest sending me chocolate if you enjoyed my
patterns. However, since I've heard about child slavery in the cocoa
industry, I'm boycotting chocolate products from companies that cannot
guarantee that child slavery is not a part of their farming process. Many
companies can offer this guarantee, and I wholeheartedly support them in
their chocolate production by eating as much of their chocolate as I possibly
can. And I urge you to do the same.
©2006 by Marnie Ann Joyce. All rights reserved.